Booth Layouts

Let Us Help With Your Custom Booth Configurations!!

At our core, we specialize in bringing your restaurant’s vision to life. By working directly from your floor plans, renderings, and furniture specifications, we can design and build custom pieces tailored to your exact layout and aesthetic. Whether it’s maximizing seating with custom booths, crafting statement tables to match your concept, or coordinating finishes with your design palette, our team ensures every detail aligns seamlessly. From start to finish, we turn plans into precision-built furniture made to elevate your space and stand up to the demands of commercial use.

Commercial Restaurant booth layout
Commercial Restaurant booth layout
Commercial Restaurant booth layout with long booths and several smaller booths
Commercial Restaurant booth layout with Two rows of booths facing each other and seats in between
Commercial Restaurant table layout

A Few Examples Of Booths That We Have Done Over The Years

Booth Set FAQ: Measuring, Layout & Assembly

Measuring & Space Planning

How do I know how many booths will fit in my space?

As a general rule for restaurant seating, you should allow for 24 inches of table length per person. When planning your layout, remember to account for both the booth depth and the table width. For a standard back-to-back booth configuration (a “booth pit”), you typically need approximately 72 inches from the center of one booth back to the center of the next.

While we specialize in custom configurations, our standard commercial dimensions are:

  • Seat Height: 18″ (industry standard for dining).

  • Booth Depth: 24″ (total footprint from the front of the seat to the back of the unit).

  • Standard Lengths: 48″ (seats two adults side-by-side) or 24″ (deuce seating).

To ensure guest comfort, there should be a 2-inch overlap where the table edge hangs over the booth seat. This prevents guests from leaning too far forward to reach their food. If your table is 30″ wide, the distance between the two booth backs in a “pit” should be 66″ to 72″ depending on the thickness of the booth backs.

Yes. When measuring for wall-to-wall banquettes or “in-fill” booths, always measure from the narrowest point (usually the baseboard). If you are ordering a custom length, it is safer to subtract 1/2 inch from your total wall-to-wall measurement to ensure the unit slides into place without damaging your walls.


Section 2: Table Assembly (Attaching Bases to Tops)

What tools will I need to assemble my booth tables?

  • Power drill or screwdriver (with a #2 Phillips bit).

  • Measuring tape and a pencil.

  • A soft blanket or cardboard (to protect the table surface during assembly).

  • Short wood screws (usually 1” or 3/4”, depending on your tabletop thickness).

How do I center the table base?

  1. Protect the Top: Lay your tabletop face-down on a soft, clean surface (like a blanket).

  2. Mark the Center: Use a tape measure to find the exact center of the table. For a rectangular table, draw a light “X” from corner to corner; the intersection is your center point.

  3. Position the Spider: Place the “spider” (the mounting plate at the top of the table base column) over your center mark. Ensure the legs of the base are aligned the way you want them (usually diagonal to the corners for maximum stability).

How do I avoid drilling through the top of my table?

This is the most common assembly error. Before drilling:

  • Check Screw Length: Hold your screw against the side of the table. The screw should be at least 1/4″ shorter than the total thickness of the tabletop plus the mounting plate.

  • Use a Drill Stop: If using a power drill, wrap a piece of masking tape around your drill bit at the desired depth. Stop drilling once the tape reaches the wood.

Do I need to pre-drill holes?

Yes, especially for solid wood tops (like our Rustic Pine or Oak series). Pre-drilling “pilot holes” prevents the wood from splitting and makes it much easier to drive the screws in straight. Use a drill bit that is slightly narrower than the shank of your screw.

 

What if my table is extra long?

For tables 54″ or longer, we recommend using two bases or a trestle base for stability. Space the bases approximately 12–15 inches from each end of the table to ensure there is plenty of legroom for guests entering and exiting the booth.


Section 3: Installation & Finishing Touches

Should I bolt my booths to the floor?

Most JL Conrad booths are designed to be heavy enough to stay in place under normal use. However, for “island” booths (not against a wall) or high-traffic areas, we offer floor-mount tabs or weighted bases upon request. If your floor is uneven, use the adjustable glides on the table bases to prevent wobbling.

How do I clean my new booth set?

  • Vinyl/Upholstery: Wipe down with mild soap and warm water. Avoid harsh chemicals or bleach, which can crack the material over time.

  • Wood Tops: Use a damp cloth and a wood-safe cleaner. Never leave standing water on wood joints.

Need a custom layout?

If your space has unique corners, columns, or non-standard dimensions, Contact Our Team. We can work directly from your floor plans to create a custom CAD layout for your restaurant.

Table Assembly

What tools will I need to assemble my booth tables?
  • Power drill or screwdriver (with a #2 Phillips bit).

  • Measuring tape and a pencil.

  • A soft blanket or cardboard (to protect the table surface during assembly).

  • Short wood screws (usually 1” or 3/4”, depending on your tabletop thickness).

    1. Protect the Top: Lay your tabletop face-down on a soft, clean surface (like a blanket)
    2. Mark the Center: Use a tape measure to find the exact center of the table. For a rectangular table, draw a light “X” from corner to corner; the intersection is your center point.
    3. Position the Spider: Place the “spider” (the mounting plate at the top of the table base column) over your center mark. Ensure the legs of the base are aligned the way you want them (usually diagonal to the corners for maximum stability).

This is the most common assembly error. Before drilling:

  • Check Screw Length: Hold your screw against the side of the table. The screw should be at least 1/4″ shorter than the total thickness of the tabletop plus the mounting plate.

  • Use a Drill Stop: If using a power drill, wrap a piece of masking tape around your drill bit at the desired depth. Stop drilling once the tape reaches the wood.

Yes, especially for solid wood tops (like our Rustic Pine or Oak series). Pre-drilling “pilot holes” prevents the wood from splitting and makes it much easier to drive the screws in straight. Use a drill bit that is slightly narrower than the shank of your screw.

For tables 54″ or longer, we recommend using two bases or a trestle base for stability. Space the bases approximately 12–15 inches from each end of the table to ensure there is plenty of legroom for guests entering and exiting the booth.

Installation & Finishing Touches

Should I bolt my booths to the floor?

Most JL Conrad booths are designed to be heavy enough to stay in place under normal use. However, for “island” booths (not against a wall) or high-traffic areas, we offer floor-mount tabs or weighted bases upon request. If your floor is uneven, use the adjustable glides on the table bases to prevent wobbling.

  • Vinyl/Upholstery: Wipe down with mild soap and warm water. Avoid harsh chemicals or bleach, which can crack the material over time.
  • Wood Tops: Use a damp cloth and a wood-safe cleaner. Never leave standing water on wood joints.

If your space has unique corners, columns, or non-standard dimensions, Contact Our Team. We can work directly from your floor plans to create a custom CAD layout for your restaurant.